Outlined in this article are some of the processes that can be
used to age and weather model boats. The following is only a guide
and is intended to help you determine what your finished model will
look like before you actually begin assembly.
Preparation
First ask yourself: 'Will the model look better by weathering?' In
general, working boats such as tugs, fishing trawlers, riverboats
and barges are very good candidates. Also, models that use
wood or metal as primary construction materials seem to have better
results. You might have heard the saying: "Build the boat in
your mind first and then execute the plan". This also applies to
painting and finishing. Do some research into your project and
think about types of paint, their application, colours and balance.
Consider how finishes such as high gloss, satin or matt may
look.
Pre-Planning & Experimentation
When ageing and weathering, pre-planning is
essential. You need to make the decision to age and weather
before construction begins and it should be carefully thought out.
To do this you'll need to experiment, but not on the boat!
Once you have the construction materials, experimentation can
begin. Take some scraps that will not be used and glue them onto a
board. These test strips will be used to
determine exactly how certain paints and stains adhere
to woods, fibreglass or plastic etc.
Cut up several test strips of wood and run over them with a
wire brush attached to a drill. This exposes the grain and helps
give a used and worn look. The variance in texture and colour is
what you're looking for, particularly in deck planking. Deeper
grooves will stain darker than untouched areas. Start with a
soft or medium wire brush and remember that flat horizontal areas
of the boat (rooftops, decks, cap rails) age more quickly than
vertical pieces such as sidings or trims, so adjust your wire
brushing depths for the appropriate part of the boat.
Selecting Paints & Stains
Select your paints and stains in terms of
compatibility and the finish required, be it matt, semi-gloss,
satin or gloss.
Colours
Purchase an assortment of paints that you think
will look good as the base colours for the boat. The colours you
select will, of course, depend on your personal taste. Colours such
as charcoal grey, lichen grey, black, soft grey, antique white and
a soft brown will be used later in the process for "washing" and
"dry brushing" over the base paints.
Begin by painting the test strips with all the colours you want to
use on the boat - for the hull above and below the waterline,
the cabin, and trim areas. Thin the paint and apply multiple
coats. Use "angle brushes" versus "square cut" brushes, as they
provide a cleaner line. You will probably end up with dozens of
painted test sticks, so be sure to carefully label each one. Don't
be afraid to mix colours, and remember these are just the base
colours. If they are a little on the light side, don't worry
because you'll be adding "washes" when you actually paint your
model later on.
Try to determine which colours look the best together (hull
colours, deck stains and caulking lines, cabin and trim colours).
Colours should complement each other, and be relaxing and
pleasing to the eye.
Once you have narrowed down the base colours for your boat,
select a stain for the deck planking and apply it to a new test
strip. Use an angle brush and try to keep the stain out of the
caulking. If the stain should creep in, however, don't worry.
It will just add to the authenticity of the model.
Again, remember that you are applying this technique to
a test strip and not the actual model.
Washes
When you are satisfied with your base colours and
stain combination, it's time to experiment with the final
touches.
When ageing and weathering, think about the appearance of wood that
has been exposed to the sun and water over time. Painted
finishes break down and lose their lustre as the wood grains and
natural wood colour begin to show through. Painted wood that
has been exposed to the elements is not a continuous colour but
rather a combination of subtle highlights and textures. To achieve
this appearance, try "washing" over your base colours on the
various test boards you have selected.
A "wash" consists approx 10-20 drops of water or thinner to 1- 2
drops of paint. It is a subtle and gradual build up of colour.
Experiment by washing the test boards with a "fan" brush. The
fan brush will leave streaks, but you'll be applying several wash
layers and colours, and you will want these streaks to show - as
opposed to a single heavy coat which will probably hide any wood
detail. Don't forget that you are washing and highlighting, not
painting. If your test strip still looks too streaky, try
using a technique call "dry brushing". Dip a dry square or angle
brush in the wash, then pat one side of the brush on a paper towel
before colouring the board. Soft, gentle strokes are key and will
accentuate wood details when using this method.
White base colours often look good when washed with lichen grey (a
light brownish grey earth tone that resembles dirt). Darker colours
on trims look good when washed with charcoal or lighter greys, or
even lighter browns.
Next, try washing over your deck and caulking boards with light and
dark greys to give it more of a "working" appearance.
Grey tones over brown go well together.
TIP: washing is a gradual process, but if thin coats of wash are
applied and dried with a hair dryer, dozens of coats can be done in
a day.
To further accentuate well-worn areas of the boat such as grab
rails, handles and lower trim boards, try using "weathering
pastels", which when applied with a dry brush, will simulate
additional dirt, rust, smoke, and weather-stained appearances.
Once applied to your model, you can rub it with your finger
or seal the pastels with a topcoat.
Washes over a fibreglass hull or gel coat are a bit trickier. If
you have a spare piece of fibreglass like a deck cutout, use it as
a test board. After your usual primer and paint have been
applied and allowed to dry, try mixing your colour wash with a few
drops of carpenter glue. It leaves a slight tacky surface and
wash colours adhere rather than roll off the paint, making it
easier to simulate age and wear.
Final check before assembly
After washing, recheck the final colours together
on all the test boards. Look at the entire package and determine if
your range of colours, stains, and washes complement each other.
If you're still not sure, duplicate your colours onto larger
test boards and make absolutely certain everything looks
satisfactory. Most importantly, take your time. It's much
easier to make changes now than making them later on the actual
model.
And finally
Aged pieces don't have sharp corners, so gently round them
off.
Cabin and deck boards shrink with age. Give them a bit more space
to create older character lines.
Do all your wire brushing before the boards are glued to the
boat.
Paint all your trim boards first, on 3 sides, and then glue.
It's a cleaner line and you needtouch up only the ends with a
small brush.
Use coloured pastels to get the dirtier or rusty areas you want,
then rub them in with your fingertips.
Dip or paint brass fittings with a blackening or greening agent
commonly found in railway modelling.
Plastic or white metal fittings should be painted with primer
and topcoat in the chosen colour, and then use the wash and dry
brush techniques described above.